Sunday, January 23, 2011

In Moshi Town







It seems as if we never left Moshi in many ways. Our house is the same, power outages are the same, water shortages are the same, and many of the people are the same. It has been great to step back into the world where everyone greets you with warmth and happiness, and no one tells you their problems until after the third “How is, how are…..” At that point, a laundry list of problems are told and for each the best solution is to say, “pole” (sorry). The mangos are falling.
(mango tree)
Because we have at least 9 mango trees in the yard, we have “watoto wenge” (many children) racing after school to our house to pick up the mangos.
(faux Banana Tree)
The birds are singing all morning. John says that we don’t need an alarm clock and he is right. The birds begin at 6:15 on the dot and continue until they settle down about around 8.

The time has gone quickly this past two weeks. John has already traveled to Uganda and back, thank heavens making each connection with no canceled flights. I have participated in staff meetings, been to KIWAKKUKI, and visited with my sweet Cipe whose beautiful daughter has turned 3 months old and is darling. The changes are some subtle and some quite large. No longer is Moshi without the crime that seems to plague other cities. It is now “hold on to your handbag when you are walking on the roads”. The traffic is much worse with the proliferation of piki-piki’s (motorcycles) frightening. We have been told that there is a whole ward of KCMC that has been nicknamed after one of the popular brands of motorbikes because there are so many accidents. Indeed, I have experienced the weaving of piki-piki drivers with more than one person on the back, no helmets, passing on the left and right and no way to see them in time to slow or move. As we witnessed over the years, more and more cars are on the roads, yet still there remain not even one stoplight in town.

Kilimanjaro shines each morning and each night. There has been no substantial rain in Moshi since June, so it is dusty and nice and warm, and no cloud cover on the mountain during the usual times. When you look at the mountain, you see that the glaciers are indeed melting quickly. Tanzania is the only side to have snow as Kenya lost the glaciers several years ago. It is with sadness that we have watched the change. This being the hottest time of year and the driest, no new snow covers the glaciers. They are painfully visible. But, even at that, it is a glorious mountain with the smaller sister peak Mwenzi jutting up a little like a Rasta.
(Anjela loves to put her hands on her hips)
Our housekeeper Rose’s daughter Anjela was only 3 when I first met her. She is now nearly 9. It is again hard to imagine. She is tall and quite proud of her looks!










Our gardener Pauli has a girlfriend Lucy who is sweet and seems to be a very good influence, and his brother Tomasifu is living with them and will become my Kiswahili teacher this week. Change in the air. Project people begin arriving this week; thus, we are getting ready. Power adapters, lamps, flashlights, boiling water and John in particular mapping out agenda for the many meetings that will be happening.

There are so many people that are new in town and many have babies and young children. It is really fun to see. This afternoon is the first hash at Erlich and Kirsten’s house. It was quite a good hash. For anyone who has done a hash at their house, you remember getting to the gorge and trying to find your way along it. I am quite sure that 2 of us, who were actually walking quite fast, took many hashes at the same time, but it was fun and we ended our day with Kilimanjaro beers, and lots of company. This is what makes you feel refreshed!






























(an amazing gorge, deep with fast flowing water and lots of rocks!)













































I have not lost my love of strange signs related to bars and "hotels". Here is yet one more.

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Heading to Kilimanjaro
























All the anticipation of Christmas has come and gone, another birthday gone by, and here we are in Amsterdam airport working our way back to Tanzania. It seems practically impossible after all the chaos of November and December. There were work deadlines, some made, some missed. There was World AIDS Day, a rousing success but anxiety to the last moment. There was Patient Appreciation Week in the Clinic, which, thanks to our Community Health Provider Kathy, was terrific.

Despite a fast moving GI bug that struck down 4 family members from the 23rd-26th, we managed to bake cookies, attend Jim’s concert at the cave, have Christmas day marathon, and much celebration. Tradition, it seems insane sometimes, and then just as I think that I cannot get through another minute, tears trickle down as I think how lucky I am, and how I had another holiday with my family.




































































































































Cigar Smoking? A new tradition-- (Doubt it)
Cats are funny animals and Chrissy's and mine were no different. The pranced around each other carefully, Chui not realizing that she has front claws and Squeaker none, Chui two years old and Squeaker 13. I think they really enjoy it a lot!





































John and I raced to Boone for a few days of respite in the cabin, both of us spent most of our time pouring over some aspect of work, and did our best to stay warm as temperatures plunged and snow poured. I love our wood stove and cranked it up-just to the point where John pondered opening all the windows and stripping to shorts and a T-shirt. I was thrilled, snuggling down with a light blanket and counting survey answers. The theory of the wood stove is that the heat from downstairs will flow through vents upwards. The vents are warm I will grant, but if heat flows upstairs, it is met with stiff opposition; thus, my days were primarily spent cuddled up with my kitty and the wood stove. On this trip home from the mountains, snow poured down, and we had to ask our neighbor Larry to plow down the mountain as we followed him. Made it…..gulp.

It was hard to plan for this trip. The new Medical Education Partnership Grant requires that we haul lots of equipment for KCMC, and also restock our house. The challenge is to do this within the required baggage allowance. 6 big bags later, incredibly heavy carry ons and a wing and a prayer later, we are nearly ready to fly when the predicted ice storm for Atlanta comes to fruition and our flight is changed to JFK. The good news was a rare upgrade, and a much more comfortable ride. Now the hard part begins. 8.5 hours in a middle seat, and staying awake.

The road at the end however is Kilimanjaro, and as always once we make it through customs, we see Carol on the other side waiting, and the smell of Africa is back in our bones. Shored up by seeing family, children and grandchildren, and friends over the holidays, we begin a new chapter.