Friday, September 21, 2012

Week 5-6


As with all things in travel, there are ups and downs.  We have celebrated many of them, and these series of events, friends visits, and times have been no different. Even as we thought that Julia and Charles had just arrived, so they left. Time it seems, is determined to trick you.  At night, when you cannot sleep, it is interminable, during the day it flies. And thus it goes.
John Julia (Lawi's sculpture "Rasta") Trish


We had three new visitors, though they were not new to Tanzania or Moshi.  These three delightful visitors arrived with the goal of revitalizing the OB/GYN collaboration.  The commitment, energy and delight they showed with KCMC and the surrounding area gives us not only hope but belief that our project will be diversified, and renewed faith that there is dedication to a mission to improve care for all people in the area and that Duke feels this need.  Of course, it is important to point out that KCMC's OB/GYN department is filled with talented people whom we feel great loyalty towards, and for them to be able to exchange their perspectives with our teams, and ours with theirs only enhances the possibilities for improved health all the way around.
Lisa John & Peyton

And, these three folks, Peyton, John and Lisa were terrific.  Even if they are UVA fans, it was ok. A-5 is open to them for ever!  Great to have a set of new friends.

Kilimanjaro has been somewhat quiet lately.  Not much coming out, but when it does.  Wow! You just want to keep looking.  At times, I find that I really need a piece of inspiration.  I miss my Appalachian mountains and the view from our cabin.  So when things seem  impossible--somehow the mountain knows and there might just be these views from Barabara moja in the am and the pm.
The downside can be around the corner and I was hit completely unexpectedly by some toxin from the Nairobi fly.  Somewhere I must have gotten in on my finger (I blame pinching the basil back) but come out it did!  And by Saturday night I had a burning rash that continued until Friday when it started drying up.  Horrifyingly, this pic was taken on Thursday evening 5 sleepless nights into this toxin.  (look it up!) I didn't recognize what it was early enough so when I started to put Colgate toothpaste on it I only burned.  Again thanks to Peyton and Lisa I had some cool antibiotic cream to put on which didn't fix it, but made it more bearable...except at night. Our great Fellow, Dorothy, said that the Nairobi fly had worked out the perfect revenge.  Kill it with your hand or finger and it will get your back in an incredibly horrible way.  It doesn't kill you but you wish you were dead.  Fortunately most Nairobi fly burns aren't as bad as this one.  I had had two before and though one was on my eye in 2007 and one in later 2007, none like this one. And again it is time limited.!
after 5 days of Nairobi Fly toxin (don't think you can see these creatures....they get you later)
In the midst of this we hosted (did not cook or set but only opened the house) for a fabulous hash set by some new "KIWI" friends, Jan and Bob and the hash set by Elizabeth.  Just living here and having someone wander around all the nooks and crannies of our Moshi/Kibosho area reminds me of the beauty and wonder of the whole place.  Top of it all are the fabulous children and families who simply aren't afraid to bring their children to this terrific loving environment.
Marco and his Tigger
hash group
Matt the "he-man?"
One of my featured children is Nikoli.  Nikoli comes from strong stock!  Not only is his mother a Baltimorian, and determined, a great horsewoman and tennis "pro" (Terrie) but her father and his parents are pretty much Tanzanians who have live and work and work through very difficult times and continue to keep at it.  We have loved our relationship with Greg, Terrie and Nikoli, and consider Nikoli as close to a "god-child" as there could be.  Now, I have to say that Nikoli is in the continuous movement group.  When he was younger and I was in charge of his walking at hashes, he would complain to me that he had to stop, we had to take shortcuts, or that he just couldn't continue.  Now, however, he is in front of the pack-and CRAZY! running.  Here he is at ISM during their sports day.  Before and after his own races, he was running up the sidelines, in the middle out side, even while the other competitors were resting waiting for their races.  (He had intense competition and still placed 3rd in his age.!)
Nikoli in "rest" position
But, as always, safari's await you.  And, if you are coming to enjoy, and do just a little, Serengeti is only a few hours away.  Thanks Methley for escorting our friends.
Julia and Charles Lion in Serengeti

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Moshi Week 6 Moshi to Mamba to Pangani



The two weeks have been packed with great times
Kilimanjaro from the wonderful hotel and restaurant Kilimakyaro.  Best place to have a beer!
       
John Julia and Charles at Kilimakyaro


Julia and Charles at KIWAKKUKI
Julia John Trish Dafrosa Eunice at TARWIF
Julia Charles and Sam with his Batiks

John and Lawi with the new amazing sculpture



Julia and Charles with Market Mama--colorful and delicious fruits and greens
Crazy kitty at Kilimakyaro
BaobBaob Tree with Honey on the way to Pangani

John and huge tree in Pangani
Julia and Charles in beautiful Mkoma Bay
Lovely Tented Camp in Mkoma Bay

Lovely Mkoma Bay in the morning
Sailors going out of Pangani to fish
Mkoma Bay boat at Maziwa Island
Trish after a long day in the Indian Ocean -sad hair
Sailboats in the Ocean
Fishing Boats go out to Indian Ocean
Believe it or not, the waves were huge behind us. We road them in screaming with joy.
Our hosts at Mkoma Bay Lisa and Ulrich with us at the last day
It is pretty awesome to be in Pangani.  Many memories.


The weeks have been packed with wonderful times, great guests and terrific family.  Living here in Tanzania has been one of the highlights of my life.  Meeting terrific people, Africans, Expatriates, and settled Tanzanian residents.  All have been friendly and welcoming to us.  It is a joy to be here even while we miss our friends at home.

















Sunday, September 2, 2012

Moshi Week Four

Holly lives happily at Greg, Terrie's and Nikoli's. She especially loves to eat any "off limits" food!

Sometimes it is amazing how quickly time passes.  In fact, the older we get, the faster it goes.  In my case, traveling to and from Tanzania so many times, I can hardly adjust to the speed with which time seems to pass by.  It is definitely possible that I squander a lot of time, but as I count the hours in the day, and offer some for sleep, I can see why the days go by, and I seem to be back on a plane headed one way or the other across the ocean.
Here we are, the day that Julia and Charles arrive.  The Kilimanjaro KLM site states that the plane will arrive 8 minutes late.  This plane is seldom more than 8 minutes either late or early, so we will plan to be there at KIA excited to see our kids with anticipation of two great weeks for them.
The past two weeks have been filled with day to day work, and sadly for me with getting a bad cold.  I have to admit being bitter about this as I thought I had been taking good care of myself, eating good healthy things, getting more or less enough rest and definitely exercising well.  But, oh well, I am now hacking and coughing but at least glad that I feel better than I did 4 days ago, when I was pretty sure that I would never feel "right" again.
John Nelson and Trish & No, John wasn't taken from the Nursing home for the day, he was just in pj's before I had to have the picture!
We had a wonderful visit from one of John's medical school friends Nelson.  Nelson is an oncologist at Duke and his arrival meant a packed week of meetings, discussions and plans made by John and him.  He is a great guest to have at A-5.  Never in the way, and always pleasant no matter how much power we have or whether the internet is bitterly slow.
Once again, we had a Moshi CAB meeting and 23 people were in attendance, 9 of them youth.  They were awesome and even with some encouragement, participated in the meeting.  My gut feeling is that they are much more comfortable amongst their own group, but they were terrific to see and definitely Karibu Tena!  The rest of the CAB members were much more participatory than I can remember.  They offered to help in lots of ways and finally a permanent secretary was elected.  My dear Agnes gave an in depth report on the ACTG meeting and on the International AIDS meeting. 
It was so interesting that many people asked that we have educational topics in the future for some meetings.
Agnes at a CAB meeting
A team of people visited the Palliative Care center at Health Dispensary.  A whole blog could be devoted to the difficulties that occur when a relative dies leaving no written will.  In Tanzania, the patriarchal system can be most unfair and suffice it to say, we are very worried about dear Dr. Pully and her desire to open a proper Palliative Care/Hospice in this little corner of Moshi.  There is such a need, but the site may be tied up in the courts for months because her recently deceased father left no written will and only verbally made it be known that Dr. Pully should have this land and house.  I will keep all my blog family updated about the progress-keep your fingers crossed; though once the house is hers for sure, much money will need to be raised to help the place pass inspection.  Clean and neat it is, but sadly much of the furniture, equipment and lack of shade will not meet inspection.  The amazing thing is that there is a tiny group who know this wonderful lady and are very willing to put their all behind her success.  John's  teeming with ideas, and hopefully some good will come to pass.  The need for Palliative care and Hospice Care is desperate here, and the willingness to sacrifice on the part of this group is awesome.

Dr. Pully and her dedicated staff
Palliative Care MD's in Dar Es Salaam with liquid Morphine

























The most fun part of the week was the trip to Mwika.  As always, the drive to Mwika is beautiful and interesting, and if you happen to hit it on market day, it is a special boon.  We did.  People were strolling everywhere with goods to sell or those which they had bought.  It is different than the years that we first came to Tanzania when the dirt road would be packed with lorries, people, avocados and bananas, so many that you could not drive around them.  Now there is ample room to move around, though there were still crowds everywhere.  I sort of miss the old days when the smell of Nyama would be everywhere and we would have to sit in the car for 10 or 15 minutes not making one small inch of progress.

Villagers walking to and from the Market on the new big road

Grass/hay on the way to Mwika Market
The old market!
But, on this occasion we arrived promptly at the Lutheran Church in Uuwo to meet the pastor, Mama Nancy, one of the new AMO's Alex and an Mzee. The whole team will be needed to continue to make this collaboration work.  We are especially excited about Alex, a new AMO at the Uuwo dispensary, who had actually worked with the Duke project while he was in school.  He was most enthusiastic about our arrival, and we were happy to see him.
Pastor Shao, Alex, Nancy, Trish, Muzee, Melissa and Vera
Melissa and Mama Nancy

Melissa will be the new Faculty Mentor for the Mwika Uuwo students.  It was clear that she fit right in!
Curious and shy children at Mama Nancy's

The only sad/happy part of the past two weeks, is that our sweet Lucy from MEPI left to start school in Rochester NY.  While we are excited for her, and know that she will succeed and make everyone in Moshi proud, we will miss that smiling face and joyous enthusiasm for a project that she helped to get off the ground, right from day one.  The MEPI team will joyfully welcome her back, but wish her all the best and will think of her, I'm sure each and every day.  Good luck Lucy and don't freeze!
Harriet, John and Lucy

By to chairs leaving A-5 after MEPI party, and Tutuonana Lucy!

Fabulous chairs leaving A-5