Sunday, April 7, 2013

A Remembrance of a Young Girl

We have returned to the US, and ordinarily I would write about jet lag, the mountains and fond recollections of our trip and of our fortune to be back in our house, with family and kitties.  But, I want to make a recollection of a young girl who needlessly died in Moshi.

This young girl, I will call her Mary, though that is not her name, had been infected with HIV from birth.  Which parent was first infected is unknown, apparently both parents were rather prominent people, although I did not know them.  After her father died, life became difficult for she and her mother, a common theme in Africa.  Mary was a good student and had a smile that could light up the world.  It is not easy to be a good student when you have HIV-infection because you are often prone to illnesses and you have to go to the clinics at least once/month to collect your medication.  Usually, you have to take an entire day just to see your medical provider and get your medicine, even without a thorough exam.  Most frequently, you don't have an opportunity to even express your concerns about the way you feel, your rashes, your headaches or fevers.  The drill is to get there early, wait until your name is called, and to get your medicine.

Indeed, if you are a young girl and are totally ashamed about your illness, and definitely don't want anyone you know to see you, your pattern is to sneak into the CTC, mumble that you need your medicine, and scurry out as quickly as possible.  You don't want donors to come to the school and single you out as one of the "AIDS Victims" who are getting their school fees paid by well meaning Mzungus (white people) because you are likely to be teased by everyone including possibly the teacher after the well meaning mzungu leaves.

This was the case with Mary.  Her saving grace was that she belonged to our Moshi Community Advisory Board (CAB), where quite a few other young people attended, some of whom were also HIV-infected.  The common theme among them was that it didn't matter.  The whole board accepted everyone, and in particular the Teenagers held a special bond.  But, things did not go well for Mary.  Her mother became ill and she had to miss quite a lot of school.  Several other board members said that when they saw Mary, she didn't look well, and our fabulous Research Directors said that she was plagued with low CD4 counts.  One counselor said that she was very depressed, in particular because she had missed so much school.  It was clear that she would have to resit her exams which would make it very difficult to pass.

She stopped coming to CAB meetings.  Just before I left, this counselor called me to tell me that Mary had died.  She had talked to the mother who said that she died and had already been buried before anyone could even be informed.  Apparently, even the family was ashamed.

When I think about this tragedy, especially as I return to the states where the life expectancy of children born with HIV is nearly the same as a child born without HIV, I cry.  And I do it particularly because it doesn't have to be this way.  The stigma and shame connected with HIV have lessened in some areas, but clearly not where we live in Tanzania, and the only thing that seems to give hope are clubs like our Teen Club with the Youth CAB.  Maybe if we had all known what was happening, we might somehow have been able to offer her more support and certainly our fabulous teens would have been by her side and helped.

I don't want likes on this post, but I hope those that read it, might be aware and offer their support in some way.  There don't have to be more "Marys".

Monday, April 1, 2013

Last Week in Moshi--This Trip


The week has been busy and the next three days will be especially so. 

John and Leah our latest guest!
Some wonderful signs...this one at the YMCA


I still love bars in East Africa


This little guy has been staying around our house with her babies!
Our past week marked the usual countdown for when we begin to say “Tutaonana siku moja” or “We will see you again!” It isn’t always easy, particularly as this departure coincides with Easter.

We do “bless the rains down in Africa” as they are bringing many many plants up, bringing out the termites (which many people here love to roast and eat), and though causing quite a bit of inconvenience because of the mud, are making people believe that the year will be good.

Awesome Blandi

Old Trish, Young Ema

Melki Ema Bona

Young Melki Old Trish

Prisca Stella Arnold

Very Cute CAB Youth Girls!!!!

Ha ha, very cute staff, Trish and Bona

Trish and her girls

Awesome Vale
Board busy at work

In the beginning of the week, we had a great Moshi Community Advisory Board meeting.  As usual the conversations were spirited and left never a dull moment. There was an election, and there were reports about the marathon, and the three trips- Agnes to the US and Emanueli and Prisca to Durban.  The Youth CAB made a date to meet and all the young folks were thrilled to be able to plan something separately from the “old folks”.  The young CAB members were especially touched that there was to be fund raising activities to help them have their own special time to share their ups and downs and help them use the group to be strong as they face many difficulties ahead of them.
Marco Marieke
John Bob and Greg!
Alistar & Kate

This could be a Lonely Planet Advertisement for Wageni in Tz
Hashing can be for children!

Little ones have to do what they have to do!

you can barely see Kili through the church
Our friends Marco and Mareika set an amazing hash in Kibosho.  Though it was raining and incredibly muddy, the views were gorgeous and we could see that on a clear day, the mountain through the beautiful Kibosho Catholic Church would be spectacular. There were some special moments with children and our last hash before leaving this trip was memorable.


Brave singers

During the week (Holy Week) there were medications each day.  Because we have no pastor at this time, there were opportunities for St. Margaret’s community members to step up and offer thoughtful reflections on each day and wow, those of us in attendance were treated to some incredible short meditations.  Because I was in charge of the music for Easter Sunday, I had pulled together a mix of music (all of which I like of course, but which were also a mix of contemporary and old).  A group of six of us managed to pull together 4-part harmony, some solos, and on Easter day, I think some kind of spirit took over. Though we weren’t perfect we did our best and I had but to glance at an old friend and see her tears, the same ones  I had to know that we had helped to make the service something that would be remembered.  Our neighbor and fellow “Dukie” from the medical center gave an incredible sermon, the likes of which I am sure have never been offered here, and to top it off we had a wonderful brunch and Easter Egg hunt.
John at brunch

Casey with Egg Hunt instructions


Pretty cute egg hunters

Lucy and Trish

The wonder did not stop with the events of Easter at St. Margaret’s Anglican Church.  We had been invited to Nick and Sylive’s incredible home in Machame.  We had a fun round of football throwing, during which time I happily sprained my ankle (why I am so old and think that I am so young???? Or never think that you can stay ahead of an 11 year old who has a passion for running). But at sunset, the mountain came out and was one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. There has to be some kind of karma in the world to allow us to find such wonderful friends.

A Machame Sunset
So for all the tragedies that did occur on Easter Day, the wreck on I-77, the broken leg of the Louisville Player, and though not a tragedy, a personal twinge for the Blue Devil Seniors, we all have a great deal to be thankful for.

I look forward to seeing my friends and family in the US, and our Duke Community Advisory Board, and of course the mountains!  And, then I look forward to my return to Moshi again.


Sunday, March 24, 2013

The week of Rain in Moshi

Shamba near our House

Our muddy Road
Because it has not rained in many weeks in Moshi, this week and the rain every day has been greeted with cheers and delight.   People are out with hoes trudging around in the mud and finding every available spot to drop a few seeds.  In only a few days the weather has changed drastically.  Instead of Hot dry weather, we now have very muggy, hot in the day and very cool at night weather. From the times when we were running in the morning through the shambas  (planting spaces/small farms) and being covered with dust, we are now covered with mud and have to be extraordinarily careful about where we step or even if we go in the shambas at all.  One missed step and you are down.  The mud is unforgiving.  On the other hand, it does help you grow tall and for me that is always a sort of fun thing. 

Shoes after kicking off excess mud

Happy little girl and mud!
Despite the terrific mud, the fields are full of people calling out “Shikamoo Mama” and “Mazoezi nzuri” (I kiss your feet (literally) Mama, and Exercise Good!) I call back, “Marahaba Dada au Kaka” (Don’t bother {to kiss my feet} sister or brother) and “ Asante sana, mimi ni mzee sana” (thanks very much I am very old)  We carry on happy conversations from there and by the time I get back covered in mud to the compound gate I have a whole group of new friends. 

The rains have brought little shoots of corn up, and have also brought down trees and power lines.  The rains have created terrific potholes in the shoddy tarmac roads where corners are cut and corruption is evident in the terrible materials used to pave our roads. 
The rains brought a little frog into the toilet. Heart attack!

Only one example of power lines and trees and branches down

Cute little corn among the dirt

Rain catchers in the road!

Pretty Road to KCMC becomes an obstacle course with potholes everywhere

John and I celebrated our 21st anniversary, and I tried to teach our waitress how to push down the button on the camera. We had a fabulous lunch in Sanya Juu with our friends the Mlays who coincidently are involved with the Duke Divinity School. (Chrissy eat your heart out with the plantains!).
Wilfred and John in Sanya Juu

At the table with Faith and Wilfred in Sanya Juu

Pretty curios

Anniversary dinner and me focusing on teaching the waitress to push the button DOWN!

Wilfred and delicious plantains

We celebrated Palm Sunday and I played my second alto recorder solo in a row.  Obviously not complicated music but just the same, alone!  And, this afternoon I walked under the avocado tree and reveled in the bounty.  
Avocados loading down the tree
Sadly, we won’t be here when they start to fall, but hopefully all the A-5 residents (Chrissy?) through the rest of the spring and summer will eat to their hearts content with everything.

The week will be busy with Easter coming up on Sunday, and only 3 more days in Moshi after that.  Hard to think about….

Sunday, March 17, 2013

Moshi Week 8

Moshi Week 8 -What is a Hash?

The week has been interesting hot and as usual with ups and downs.  The downs:  John had to return to the US for a 6-day adventure with two meetings.  Fortunately, the meetings went well, and he was able to stay in one hotel in Washington in an area that we love, and also to see his brother, sister and family.  Really nice, even though he had just come back from a week in Atlanta and was “all done in” as we say in the South.  It will be wonderful to see him shortly as he has just texted that he has landed in Kilimanjaro and is on his way home.
 
That being said, I had a great week with the lovely Malcolm and Lyn, and said a fond farewell to Peyton (or an until we meet again).  Peyton was a trusted companion while John was traveling everywhere and a true gentleman in helping in any way he could during this time.  Malcolm and Lyn were great fun, and all of us enjoyed the Daily news article about the Tanzanian twins who traveled to Mars, returned and shortly after performed 8 surgeries in one day at an Arusha hospital and the very same day moved on to Moshi to perform one 8 hour brain Neurosurgery at KCMC, and then traveled to meet with the President of Tanzania to discuss their impending trip to the USA to study at Harvard.  We have been waiting with bated breath for pictures and a follow-up, which they reported was top secret but an update would happen after the meeting with President Kikwete. Sad to say, no news at this time, but will report back when I find anything.  Of course, if it is printed in a newspaper, it must be true. Right?

Agnes after being selected to represent the Clinical Scientific Subcommittee
I had a wonderful time meeting with some of our Moshi CAB members who have traveled, and we have had a time to talk about what they have learned and what they hope to learn.  Sweet Agnes M. is so excited about her trip to the US and about becoming involved in the “women’s health initiative”.  She is really pumped up and excited. I love her enthusiasm.  And she left shortly after the marathon and just jumped into Atlanta.  YEA Moshi CAB.

I wanted to put some pictures about today’s hash, because I handed my camera over to a great friend Elsa.  Now, Elsa is someone who has been really around the world. (Meaning from one side (Aussie) to US to Africa) and has many stories to tell and lessons to share.  She is one of those people who is incredibly fit, has been in really awful situations and made the best of them, and always seems to have a smile on her face and a “charge on” mentality”. My goodness, thank you for that Elsa! And no picture, but I will make sure that the next week will have one! So…the nice thing about walking is that you can carry a camera, and you can take random pictures.  I was thinking about walking just so I could take some, but then my desire to get my exercise got away from me and over went my camera.
A short thought about running or walking
Chat with friends before hash
just about to set off!

For those who have not “hashed”: This involves a “hare”. This hare of course volunteers not only to set the “hash” but to provide bites and beer (and sodas as well in our case) at the end of the road.   
Bob, the penultimate hare, figures he has set 16 hashes at least.

We all pay Tsh 5000 for all we can eat bites and as many beers as we feel we can safely manage and drive down dirt, turny roads onto treacherous Tanzanian highways nearly after dark or just after dark, and not have to stop to pee.  That is the hash in a nutshell.  The nuts and bolds however include the “hair” setting a path with flour. 
Flour on the Machame trail

 Luckily for us, these are usually in beautiful areas of hills and valleys around Kilimanjaro (the mountain).  You set it with four, dots here and there until you decide to frustrate everyone with a big flour X.   

At that point, everyone (or the runners) fan out and look for more flour.  This is approximately 50 meters. Sometimes if you are wicked, you set false trails, which means that you pick up a trail after a cross, follow it and come to a big F.  Then you have to turn around and go back to the cross and then start looking for flour again!  You almost always have water to cross, either on rickety bridges, or in water or on stones.  My own stone hopping is no longer safe and unless they are very close, I am an “in water crosser”. 
Stone leaping or in water crossing?  I am in, so was my friend Jean

Significant hashes get their numbers.  We are now at 265!

You also frequently go up and down incredible hills and valleys, mostly hanging on to what ever you can find, and even sometimes resorting to sitting down and sliding.  There are many running pants I own that have been torn out by just sitting and sliding when the steep was too great.
A welcome to Machame, and buy your Zantel internet stick

Young hasher

Beautiful flower

Rickety bridge crossing

Beautiful Deadly Nightshade blooms all around water

walking hashers

oops a chicken hashing

what you see hashing, interesting houses

Old Lutheran lodges, no longer used(or ever?)

A big UP

A southern US ex-pat with a sense of humor

The down must happen

Eventually you find your way to the end.  That is unless you become hopelessly lost, your Kiswahili isn’t good enough to find the path, and/or the local wonderful folks think this is a big joke and give you the wrong directions.  Thank goodness I have never been in that group, but it is a bit scary as the sun sets in this beautiful area.

I started “running” hashes not quite 2 years ago, and I find that though I don’t take pictures, I much prefer it.  It is really hard and scary. I still climb up and skate down holding on.  No running, and no running on rocks, through water…but on the paths and the more or less level ground, it is so much fun.  Boys and girls start laughing at this old lady and running with me shouting “pole Pole (slowly slowly) , mamas shout (to my Pole or Poleni (sorry sorry to you all) Na we we pia and oh mama, unachoka sana (you are very tired {because I am very red} and we all laugh. Some of us fairer mzungu (white) women turn red within 5 minutes and that is that.

At the end is beer, wonderful chats, and the feeling that you belong.  So, welcome back John, Nearly 21 years of marriage! Happy Birthday Isaiah, Ella and Lexton, and Go Blue Devils (hang in there after the loss).  
At the end, good company beer, chips and chatting.