A Last Week in Moshi, packed with events

John arrived home from the US at around 3:00 am. He was in absolutely misery.  The plane had sprung a gas leak, and all passengers were evacuated emergently from the plane.  Everyone was calm he said, but exhausted.  They had to wait in the airport lounge and John said that everyone was trying to stay awake, but...not easy.

For better or worse, our Monday was highlighted with a big barbecue in our yard, in honor of our laboratory leader Michael, who is leaving Moshi at the end of the month.  Michael has led the KCMC/Duke lab at a time of some stress, and kept the team going.  A big thank you was awarded Michael from all the staff.

There is a tremendous amount of "prep" goes into a big cookout like this.  Here are Boni and Lucy, prepping immense amounts of veggies.  Behind Boni you can see a fire going with two big pots (of oil) for the bananas and potatoes.  The salad was fantastic with only a topping of salt and vinegar--tomatoes, cucumbers, garlic and onions.  Behind the fire, little Jonathon watches.  He wanted to help.  So....

Jonathon was given the important job of pouring water back and forth from one cup to the other.  He took his job very seriously.

Despite his advanced age, Charlie brought his girls by to see if they could help out with the food part.  They did not seem to get the full import of the chicken barbecue aspect.

A number of folks arrived in early, so we chatted as we waited for the beer (a crucial element of every barbecue)

The guest of honor Michael.  I think his send off was a huge success.

Our goat gave up his life for a good cause

 Kate has her first goat nyama choma.  So delicious and what a great shot of Kate.

Three Franks, and three accountants.  This was a celebration of a new financial account set up to avoid some of the confusion of lots of different grant monies going into one code.  We say "thanks" to the Franks!

My friend Alex took me to the TPC mosquito vivarium.  This fun topiary was a welcome to Bill Gates.  The Gates foundation funds much of the Malaria research going on in the world.  I learned one heck of a lot about mosquitoes and malaria while out at the Vivarium with Alex.  And, she is the perfect host (ess).

 New resistant mosquitoes are being bred outside in the perfect environment

Here they are in their special mosquito nets.  The question is which nets will kill these highly resistant mosquitoes, most of which come from Northern Uganda.

Now, these little guinea pigs help to test for malaria.  (Don't worry, they don't die)  Their little tummies get shaved and they sleep on top of the mosquito boxes (they are slightly drugged so they sleep (lala) well.  Then their bites are counted in the am.  Imagine, guinea pigs contributing to the battle against malaria.  What is just horrifying is that the mosquitoes have figured out how to squiggle through the tiny holes in the nets, and these resistant mosquitoes are not killed by the treated nets.

 This cow is going to sleep in the mosquito house.  Some cows don't mind it at all, but this one (a one year old, as most are) was very unhappy about the situation.  He wanted to have nothing to do with the houses and bucked and kicked even before he was brought to the house.

 Now he is near the house and furious.  He kicked and mooed, and actually contributed to science because no one had really planned for these rambunctious cows. Since they come from the market and they are to be trained for the houses, the angry ones are a problem.

Now exhausted the cow lies on the ground for a bit of a rest.  Don't be fooled, it did not last!

Then, finally, his "nappy" went on. Apparently, since cows are not really house trainable, they have to wear a "nappy" in order that the mosquitoes who bite the cows and die, have to be distinguished from the mosquitoes who die because they get the cow manure on them (the manure is deadly).  It is necessary to see what kills the mosquitoes, the nets or the manure or something else.  This cow did not want to wear the nappy.  I think the nappy should have had some nice fancy suspenders to make the cow a bit prouder to be part of science. For sure the plastic pants were not fashionable.

 The day before we left, I dashed down to the TAWREF meeting, and watched Dafrosa give a five year overview of the activities of TAWREF.  I am proud to have been a part of this organization for such a long period of time.

Here, one of the Vine Trust recipients gives a testimonial about receiving a home from Vine Trust, and being the recipient of the entrepreneur trainings offered by TAWREF.

Now, without adieu, we are here in Amsterdam after a sleepless night on the plane. The room is so small, that the toilet and shower are all in the same room as the bed.  Barely enough room for the suitcases, only one chair, no closet, and of course the faithful dark lighting.  If only Amsterdam was clear as it sometimes is at this time of year you could walk around outside, but no, it is the true Amsterdam weather.  Windy, rainy, and cold.  Sigh.

At least, I have my Lonely Planet to keep me warm and I will read about Morocco and warmer weather!

Next to last week in Moshi for 2015

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Addicting Rangoon Creeper covers front of house

Wow, last two weeks before we leave Moshi

This week was heralded by John’s crazy trip to Seattle.  He had three days on the ground with the CFAR meeting, and 4 in the air.  Lovely really.  He is not home as I write, because his plane from Seattle to Amsterdam was fine, but the plane leaving Amsterdam was grounded due to a gas leak and it could not be fixed.  So, he will be at least four hours late.  It is of course horrible to contemplate, and even with that, he may be left in Dar Es Salaam for convenience sake. (and to keep the rotation on time back in Amsterdam.)So who knows when he will return.  Oh my goodness.

Pole John.  And on top of that, we sadly leave Moshi on Saturday, so he will only be back for 6 days before we board a plane again.  And the week will be busy sana!

But, I can say that the week was quite interesting.  I have fallen in love with my Rangoon Creeper, which is trying to creep all around the house now, and makes things very beautiful.   My friend Jackie has been helping me identify things, so it was fun to go to her amazing house for book club this week.

beautiful bountiful orchid

Jackie's porch

View of Mawenzi peak from Jackie's porch

What can you say when a Masaai lady comes up to your porch and “Hodi’s” you (hello anyone home?) ?  Well, seems to me you say, “Karibu ndani” (welcome inside) and she walks up to the porch, sits down and proceeds to engage me in a (pathetic on my side) talk in Kiswahili about my family, my children and grandchildren.  As always there are similarities, she has 5 children as well as me, but she has 19 grandchildren!  (I did not ask how old her children were when they had their children!).  She also, just in case I was interested, had some Masaai jewelry that she had made, and reminded me that she would be exhibiting at the ISM Christmas show.  I had already remembered her from last year and we again had a lovely exchange.   And though her purpose might have been to sell me some jewelry, she was happy as well to sit and chat. She was quite pleased in my rooster, Charlie, and even when I told her that he was a fairly old rooster, she liked him just the same.  I tried to understand her name, but it was very Masaai, and I could not make heads or tails of it.

Masaai Momma on porch

Masaai Momma loving my porch

In addition to people, creatures love my porch.

PJ Lily

This moth is bigger than a hummingbird!  beautiful

Adorable "njuici

I think his name will be Ramses (of course I am not the owner!_)

My week continued with a meeting with a young man from ISM who is interested in attending Duke.  He is an amazing young man.  His father had 3 wives, and he has a lot of brothers and sisters as a consequence.  He had a very hard life, the father taking him as a small child to live with his father in another town, and then his father dying, and he being moved back to his mother’s, who was not able to care for him and was quite sick, being found by a local wonderful organization that has made a huge impact on his life. His mother has died as well, and he manages to see his brothers and sisters, but at the same time focuses somehow very hard on academics. If he makes it to Duke, I think he would be a super catch. But, sometimes you are at a loss as to know what to say to someone who has managed to show incredible resiliency in the face of terrible obstacles, and the best thing to do is to kick into a little “mother” motif, and a lot of, "What do you see yourself getting out of college". "What are your interests".  "Do you know what a Liberal Arts college means?"  He really wants to come to Duke, and I really think he could make it.  Gracious, talking to this young man was inspiring. (no picture to protect confidentiality)

It was perfect on the heels of this meeting, that we had a. the first rain in weeks, and b. our Tanzanian Regional Social Work Meeting.  Again, I took away from this meeting, the inspiration of our young people and the dedication they have to making a difference.  It is truly a delight to be a “woman of a certain age” and find young people so much smarter than I ever was, and so dedicated to their work.  Thank you TASWO for inspiring me again.

Dada Agnes Urassa, Outgoing chair of TASWO Kilimanjaro

Sara Urasa, MD Director of Hospital Services KCMC speaks

 The entire crowd agreed that Sara Urasa's talk on the need for Social Workers in Hospital Settings, and the importance of Teamwork was the highlight of the day.  The consensus from the attendees, More of these inspiring talks, please.

TASWO Kilimanjaro group

TASWO Executive Committww

Young people are our future

Lest I forget, my brother Jim is now two years older than I am.  He had his birthday on the 7^th!!!

Birthday boy in middle!  Jim Watson

And once again the week ended with a delightful day at St. Margaret’s Church for “Family Sunday” and a brilliant playlet organized by Clive and Bodil, and our wonderful pastor Tony playing the lead Pharisee.  I got a front row seat because I was playing recorder and spent most of my time trying not to laugh until I cried.  For this last Sunday at St. Margaret’s this trip, it was pure pleasure.

Finally, we had a lovely “hash” in Old Moshi.  This area is spectacular with views and many old old sites that make up the Old Moshitown.  You would never know that it was a town as it is spread out, and just dabs of things here and there.  The old church where our friend Greg’s grandmother is buried is just down the way, and the hash was located where the original Keys Hotel is located.  I couldn’t take pictures because it started pouring rain, and my little phone camera would have died immediately, but it was spectacular.! Here are some Throwback pictures from the church with some of the German Bells...to 2009!

Nikoli at the bells

Sylvia Wilson's grave (Greg's grandmother)

Greg Emmanuel at the church

The little German Church

One more week…..sigh

Kibo Peak Kilimanjaro from Jean's house on the compound

Kibo Peak Kili again from Jean's house across the street from me.!

Elections are Over, What has Changed and Mama Mkali is Alive and Well

John Pombe (really) Magufuli (the Bulldozer)

Samia Suluhu Hasaan First Female Vice-President of Tanzania

I felt as if I were in the US after Bush V Gore and the Florida election votes had been tallied.  “ hanging chads”  and the election is over…almost, and then over as Magufuli was quickly seated with his Vice President, Samia Suluhu, a strong woman from Zanzibar. I find it hard to understand a good deal of the response to the elections.  I am completely baffled by the CCM party’s ownership of the National Election Commission and the Zanzibar Election Commission and their overt “flip-flop”; i.e., the acceptance of the mainland vote (which was clearly manipulated, probably not enough to change the outcome of Magafuli winning, but enough to infuriate the voters who voted for the opposition and are probably correctly sure that ballots were not counted properly from certain regions), and the Zanzibar nullification of their vote in which the opposition won.  (and probably even there the opposition votes weren’t fully counted).  So, my African friends are angry, yet not surprised, and they aren’t rioting but they are hoping that some international group (hopes hanging futilely on the US) will get involved and force a recount of the mainland and an acceptance of the vote on Zanzibar.  Sigh.  Magufuli has pledged to end corruption of the high level party officials.  All of us are hoping that he will make good on his promise, and that the new leaders will be strong and willing to work with the opposition instead of trying to crush them.  Who knows.

Golden weaver bird in Zawani Tented Lodge Camp

Mama Mkali (Mama Harsh, mean or whatever) headed out for a short run on Wednesday, only to run into a little boy and his young mother.  The little boy had rocks that he was throwing at the weaver nests, where babies were chirping and mothers in their plain colors were anxiously flying around trying to protect their nests.  I (mama mkali) in my most stern Kiswahili (which of course isn’t that great) in no uncertain terms told the little boy to stop, I took his rocks and gave him a lesson in the worth of birds that eat bugs, mosquitos and other “wadudu” that are annoying and sometimes harmful to humans.  His stunned mother finally said, “si piga motto”  (stop hitting child) and he did.  So here again is a beautiful golden weaver from Ziwani Camp.  The weaver nests are fascinating, but let them fall after the babies grow and leave, please.

Because of the elections, John and I had stocked up on provisions and made a pledge to stay near home and KCMC (to which we can walk if need be).  It was actually a good week, and I revel always in our sweet house and all the flowers that Pauli has planted and nourished.  I try to help him, but my zeal for manure and feeding some of the plants results in the tragedies of their demise.  Here are some just fabulous ones.!

Clerodendrum (beautiful)

Shell Ginger beautiful

And this is Pink Oleander, beautiful but very poisonous

Our fun house

I'm obsessed with the Rangoon Creeper

And, so sad to report that the baby ducks have been struck by some virus.  All but 5 have died.  I fear the same outcome for the others, but maybe fate will intercede.  They are so cute, and for Pauli, Lucy baby Joni and me, it is very sad to watch their quick demises.

 

In this “stay near home plan”, we had a lovely dinner with the new Executive Director of the hospital Gileard Masenga and an opportunity to chat about shared hopes and dreams for KCMC and for projects that are on-going or about to come.  

Two incredibly handsome guys!

We also had a fun conference that our wonderful Dr. Nyindo presented on his parasitology “MOK”.  I thought of my friend Doug, and how, at the end of his life, he signed up for every on-line course he could find.  He would have loved this one, I guaranty.  And, Nyindo is so very happy when he finds an outlet for his special field of gross bugs and snails and horrible diseases that sail right along with them.

Kili  Oct 28 2005

kili with bouganvilia oct 28 2015

Kili Oct 28 2015

The mountain has been out, and though it is always inspiring, take a look at the loss of snow.  Stunning this year.  When I compare the snow just 10 years ago this month, it is astonishing.

Finally, it is Halloween!  And here we had the first “trick-or treaters” I can remember.  Start a tradition kids.  Wonderful.  So Happy Halloween all! Or All Hallows Eve or whatever.