Moshi Only 5 more days

njuci on wall of KIWAKKUKI

One of the cooks for good friends, has started her own business. Mama Betty makes the best "watu" (food for the people) food I have ever had, and on top of it, she is nice and dedicated to her children and the lives of others.

As with all things related to time, there is suddenly not enough of it left to accomplish the things that need to be done, and to say goodbye once again to Moshi and Tanzania.

This trip has been incredibly hectic. John has had to come and go from Moshi, most recently the crazy trip to Boston in the freezing snow and then to South Africa with pretty much heat. His return brings just six days before we start an incredibly complicated return to the United States, Abu Dhabi and Dubai being stops along the way.

We have had visitors after visitors coming to help with the start of "MEPI". The real truths of living in Tanzania have been offered up. (no power, poor water pressure--though we have not run out, dust beyond belief, our rooster waging crowing contests with the neighboring rooster at all hours of the day, bumpy roads.......name it!)

Ed and Colleen on their departure night with no power
Oneko (our great OB/GYN MD, Ed, Guido and John at Mkulima, our favorite bar)

The time here however has been pretty wonderful. Even the “This is Tanzania” adventures, now that most are behind me, have been stories, and a good story is worth a whole lot in this world. Perhaps my favorites have been the attempts to “boot” my car, the latest of which was last weekend when I had the engine running and was in it waiting for 30 seconds while the “cushion fundis” loaded previously purchased lovely green, boiling hot velour cushions into the car. I am not one to completely lose my temper, but on this occasion, I went completely kichaa and just screamed at them. Because everyone on the street knew me as well, they and I “persuaded” them to remove the boot and with no bribe!

We’ve had the hashes that John has set, and the lovely hash that Adrian set.

Entrance to John and Dana's hash in Kilema

after the hash with bites and beer

walkers during Adrian and Ruth's hash at the KIBO Coffee Estate
We’ve had the Kilimanjaro marathon, and my great friends sharing the experiences.
Marathon down main road
Back of Rick and in distance, Adrian and Ruth with their dog watching the marathon
Family shot with Terrie and Maracella at marathon
Simon Mtui, the "gentle giant" world famous for marathons
We’ve had a dada’s (sister’s) where my friend Lydia had her birthday celebration with an accordion player who could only play two chords played and played in the rhythm of Happy Birthday. We didn’t know how to tell him to stop, so it was a bit noisy and strange, but …. Oh well.

I discovered a small palliative care unit in a small ward of Moshi, where the Clinical Officer (sort of doctor) has a very clean little house all set up with oxygen, locked cabinet, staff, and dedicated persons ready to take care of the dying. They just need to get some permission for pain medications and certification from the Tanzanian Palliative Care Association. I believe that by the time I return, they will have it.
nice courtyard
doctor and assistants, beds

Oxygen Concentrator at First Health (They have two huge back up oxygen tanks for times of power failure)

I’ve been up to my ears in work at KIWAKKUKI, and I can say that I have edited 4 reports, two project proposals, and one master’s assignment.
KIWAKKUKI Volunteers and World Food
Some I must say have been of better quality than others, but again, that is the nature of things. I have one to go. I have become closer to most of the staff, and the ease of our relationships at KIWAKKUKI is really great.

Verynice, me and Jacinta who are sponsored by our great friends Phil and Marilyn Best
We even celebrated “nane tatu” day (9th day 3rd month) International Women’s day.
(Women's Day)
Chair of KIWAKKUKI Immaculate, and my sister Lui at International Women's Day

Some children sponsored by KIWAKKUKI and Bernard vanLeer Foundation
I’ve attended two Community Advisory Board meetings for our Clinical Trials Unit, and WOW! This Board is just astonishing. They are so devoted, volunteer for things, and attend with zeal. New representatives were chosen, and a new vice-chair. With each nomination, each of them had to give a speech about what they hoped to accomplish in their position, and they were absolutely grilled about their reasons for wanting to run. I was stunned. We now have a facebook page, and will be working on a blog together.

Agnes, our new GCAB rep at her organization's new building, Pamoja Tunaweza

Agnes Urassa and CAB

Dr. Elizabeth and CAB chair John Mwita (two great people)
I have visited one Duke Engage project that is set, and four potential others, two of which are located in lovely but very rural areas. And, I have almost finished the reports for them (gulp).
little boy pulling water up hill in Shimbwe
I really did come on this trip
Vera and Mama Nancy in Mwika
The whole Kilimanjaro from Mwika
Pamoja Tunaweza Celebration

I even attended Ash Wednesday services at our little Anglican Church here, St. Margaret’s. Currently, we have a fantastic pastor. He makes those of us heathen’s really think about things, and I for one hope that there is some way found to keep him on for a longer period of time. He and his wife are dynamite.

Our Priest Adrian and wife Ruth's lovely spaniel. Not that the dog is what makes them so wonderful!

Our Duke project staff meetings simply cannot be described. As JC, the perfect straight man, runs these meetings and all of the “This is Tanzania” issues come out, one or two of us are barely able to keep from completely losing it. My favorite issue that is now solved to some degree of acceptability is the way that the air conditioner in labor and delivery had to be tilted for the water to drain out of the window and outside rather than inside onto the ward. And, connected to this solution is how a cable will be run from one electrical area up to the labor and delivery ward with a type of thermostat on it to measure the high and low temperatures in the ward. Apparently, the cable that was made available is long enough, in fact as John said, long enough to pass all the way from the hospital to the Indian Restaurant, El Rancho. There have been equally interesting things. Our pharmacist, the ever creative and bright Salamon, apparently has a sister with some “second sight” and she is able to predict quite a few of things and do it very effectively. Generally, an ending for each meeting is, “Salamon, has your sister given us any information that we ought to know about?” He dramatically pulls out his cell phone. I find the collegial nature of this group quite wonderful, and will miss it when I leave.

For my daughter, this is a picture of a leech and maggot breeding area for dermatology. They are looking a terrible wound debridement problems and are embarking on leeches and maggots as last resorts when antibiotics and traditional debreidement does not work


My little Faraja has grown so big as well. She is the friendliest baby with a grin that just lights up the world. Cipa and Omari have done a wonderful job making this little girl a terrifically social baby, and one that all the “Mzungus” who come to the shop admire tremendously.

The big news is that the hole in our roof is finally getting repaired today and it is Saturday. I cannot even imagine that the “fundi’s” would come on Saturday, but they did and the roof looks much better.

Hole in Roof Day two. Each day more and more of this nasty stuff fell on the porch floor. Yea, now all fixed and boring.
Suddenly as the fundis are finishing the roof, a huge rain storm has come and the first hail storm I have ever seen in Moshi comes down all over, bouncing ice balls, just like little marables. Wonders never cease.

So saying goodbye to Moshi again, until the next time is always hard, but I must say that my mind will hold some wonderful memories until we return again. (and maybe I will get to Arusha National Park again the next time. !!!!!!

beautiful lily blooming at our little house after an afternoon rain

Some crazy kind of Tucan Birds who decided to live in our trees for about 2 weeks. Now they have moved on.