First 10 Days in Moshi

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Kilimanjaro (Kibo) from Machame

Our ten days in Moshi have been eventful in large part because it has been quite hot.  The drought has been fierce and every day we worry that water will just stop.  The mountain has lost even more glacier; the Short Rains never came so there was no harvest.  The people are worried.

They are worried also because the President has issued more and more restrictions that just seem crazy.  His acts are homophobic and sometimes irrational.  He loves western money, but does not seem to like western people, and his “Acts” are decimating the ex-patriot population who teach, farm, and are part of the health care community.  On the other hand, he is quite adamant about corruption and we have heard that his offices are busy where they once were lax.  He fires people, but of course their salaries continue because there have been no official charges brought and tried in a court of law.  We can most certainly identify with the anxiety of the Tanzanians who feel that they have no opportunity for opposition, and the every day Tanzanian who cannot get work as he pares down jobs in every sector.  We see and hear the same issues from the US, though even more draconian.

So, that is my sadness.  My joy is being back in this country that I love.  I am still working through the health issue that was my IT band, but it is nearly healed completely.  I swim every morning between 7am and 8am.  I love my instructor and friends who swim at the same time.  The only problems I am now having are a. getting up at 5:30 am to drag myself to the pool, and b. that I’m not showering off enough with soap and have a bad chlorine rash.  Have to be more careful.

Imagine all over my imperfect body

The other leg...not showing arms-too horrible

So I have focused just a few pictures on things that I love.  Birds, Flame trees and Kilimanjaro.

 Most of these birds are fly catchers, warblers or sun birds.  Would have to have Bob our Jackie Brice Bennett to tell me.  The warbler (which I think is the brown one) has a song nearly the same as a cardinal.)  Sun birds sound a bit like hummers.  Not much.  The fly catchers are very curious birds esp. where people are concerned.

The flame trees of Moshi are still out (our Christmas trees) I think of "The Flame Trees of Thika"  Ours are just as beautiful.

Yesterday, John and I had quite an adventure.  We were to go to the Kili View Lodge for our biweekly hash, and all was well when we started (remember we have a Rav4, the first model that had only front wheel drive) but the farther up the mountain the more difficult the road became.  Lots of potholes and the road narrowed considerably.  It started raining just as the drive became steeper.  As we started down a very steep section pieces of the road had dropped over the precipice and we were close indeed to that very same precipice.  John at this point could not control the car because there was so much mud on the tires.  We just swished this way and that.  It was terrifying.  As we approached the next steep climb, there were three trucks gathering water.  All the men were motioning us forward but John just said, I cannot control the car now, and if we finally got to Kili View, we would never get home.  No pictures.  I was sure we would not be able to even turn around.  But, we did and slowly slowly drove back to the tarmacked road.  I have never been so happy to see Rau before and then our house.  I put my feet up, read, and drank a Kilimanjaro beer at the same time everyone else would have had they been at the hash.  Home and here is this morning’s mountain.

Have a kili?

Exploring Tsavo West: Nagging Pays Off

John Trish and Bob at Kilaguni Lodge in Tsavo West

 So I am skipping the first week (which I will put up later) and moving straight to a three day safari in Tsavo West and at the Ziwani Gate (Ziwani Tented Lodge).

I had nagged John for about 3 years to go to Tsavo National Park in Kenya.  I had read every piece of history I could find about the park after John & I and our friend Bob had driven through it on the way to Shimoni for our first fishing trip.  My research had produced an amazing history of fortitude and desire to keep animals safe, thanks the Seldwick family.

 

At the spur of the moment, Bob, John and I discovered we had a weekend available. Thanks to our friend Jackie Brice-Bennett, we found a tour agency and guide who was happy to work with us.

The three of us were pretty unprepared for the amazing experience that we had.  First of all, with a new e-visa system, and our Tanzanian residency we experienced cost breaks at all the parks, and at the hotels, and the new customs program provides in and out with both countries at the same building.  Terrific.  And then, we discovered that indeed Tsavo West is a stone’s throw away from the border (18 KM). We had decided to go to Ziwani Tented Lodge (right at the edge of Tsavo West Entrance) due Jackie's suggestion.  WOW…here are some photos.

This became a theme--

Modest sign, fantastic place

Orphans come to see animals

Lots of Vervet monkeys--here one defleaing his/her friend

This monkey trying to unzip tent.  Ziwani tents very strong.

John and I front of our tent

Ostrich crossing road

Wildebeeste from outdoor eating....easy to view birds, animals

Lilac Breasted roller

Lilac Breasted Roller2

Not sure, but maybe Taveta Golden Weaver (has red crown)

Go Away Bird!

Mongoose--RikiTiki Tavi and friends

Very cool and weird Egyptian Goose

Get  ready--here is my favorite bird, The Crown Bird or Crown Crane.

Crown Crane with Egyptian Geese

Time to find your true love  Crown Birds dance

"Shake those neck feathers" Man on the Run!!!

And then there were crocs:

Sunbathing right near to us

Nice to have an askari near us!

Two big pools of Hippos!

Hippos interested but stayin' cool

I am fascinated by Hippo nose, ear and back hair! Gross?

First of two big Hippo pools

My favorite Animal--Ngiri!  Warthogs making perfect photo

Huge Nile Lizards all around streams..very weird, very prehistoric

Beautiful vista & fish eagles in trees

Only John a regular member of "The clean plate club"

Beautiful Waterbuck

Yellow Billed Stork fishing

Yellow Billed Stork surveying the pools

Tons and tons of giraffe

After 24 hours of eating the most delicious food, sleeping in the most comfortable tent, “hiking” with Chameleon, the most wonderful guide

Bob and Chameleon

, and having a night safari and delicious breakfast…off we went to Tsavo West.   

Gate to Tsavo West

Bob and I had missed that the Rhino sign, meant the entrance..umm,  a bit dense. But here we go.  Hardly had we finished the paper work than Giraffe greeted us. 

Happy Giraffe

 I became totally fascinated with the way that the birds ate the ticks off the giraffe necks and faces.  The giraffe didn't seem to care at all!

Three birds on this giraffe neck!

Look right under his mouth!

We slowly worked our way to the Kilaguni Serena, stopping frequently for photos of wonderful animals. 

Wallers Gazelle or Giraffe Antelope, very tiny with big neck & ears

Nice Wildebeeste

another nice Giraffe scene

Near the River (which was nearly dried up)

Breathtaking change of scenery

The Kilaguni was all that it was touted.  It had “posh” elements, lovely dining facitilites, nice rooms (ours was quite warm at the end of the day) with individual porches that gave us beautiful viewing areas, and the famous water hole (though it was filled with big trucks while we were there) that brings animals from all over, seemingly in a defined train. We had a great afternoon/evening drive and saw even more animals and vistas.  Tsavo West is beautiful; expanses of savannas 360 degrees.  Always plenty of birds and other animals.  Since we are not “cat” necessary travelers, we were perfectly happy with what we had seen, but just before the return in the gate, here was a beautiful family of elephants to greet us.

Hx Mzima Springs

Our nice guide at Mzima Springs

Warning Mzima Springs

Nice African Darter & little pied kingfisher

Hakuna Matata

Croc at the foot of the viewing stairs....Gulp

Mongoose in front of dining table

Lodge sign

Nice picture lodge

Inside our room

Birds eating rice in tree trunk

Bob got the instructions and we assembled

This little baby elephant came with his family of mama, aunties

nice evening baby

Animal show at lodge

In the morning, more elephants and other animals. 

After we left Kilaguni and did our exit strategy (in case of fire) we found many more animals, and finally another elephant family as we left the park.

As we were contemplating leaving Kenya, we were reassured by the underlying signs.

In case you forgot to bring it!

Miraa is something like Khat, or a relaxation drug

No way to resist this sign

If we thought that was enough…well the surprise was that President Kikwete (Tz) was meeting  President Kenyatta (Kenya) for a big celebration in Taveta (the town we had to drive through to get to the border).  Sadly, the border was closed and suddenly cars closed around us.  Our Guide managed to drive through more ditches and dust and maneuver us out, or we might be languishing in Taveta to this very day.  Sigh.  We got out, through the border before Kikwete returned, and home again.  We are still re-living our short safari, and Bob, John and I think of the magic of the time.