Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Week 3 Visiting Kenya




Morning in Shimoni Bay

Our weekend in Shimoni was filled with excitement about marlins.  2012 had been filled with fish, and we expected that this trip would be even better.  We planned our drive carefully, and this year decided that taking paved roads all the way, skirting Mombasa entirely, and passing Tanga and the border at HoroHoro would be the best way.   I missed the Tsavo elephants, but timing was right for the easier way and  I had excessive pleasure in watching the baobab trees, the sisal farms, the people in the towns and the interesting road signs.
 
Sisal hanging to dry

Beautiful Flame Tree

one of the diversions...at least entertaining

 So, we headed up a brand new nice road from Tanga to Kenya, where we did the immigration thing...one place to another.  We noticed quite intently that there was a tent where yellow fever vaccines were being given.  Busses crossing the border seemed to be full of travelers who did not have proof of their yellow fever vaccines.  Let this be a warning to those who try to travel without their proof.!  They were patiently led to the tent.  (and the cost is USD $50). The experience was much quicker for us however than it was in Holili and Taveta, and for that we were thankful.
Kenya side immigration
This lady was opening the gate--notice the gun!
The drive from the border was short and sweet.  What a welcomed difference from last year.  We arrived at our hotel, visited the Hemphills and headed off for showers and dinner.  Our first day started with excitement.  Listening to the lines running out into the ocean.  And then the wait.
Fishermen working chatting
Bob struggles with seasickness
Greg checking e-mail...things are slow


Look carefully...there is a Marlin bill (little did we know)

Things seemed to pick up when Greg got a hit and landed a nice Dorado.
Greg pulling Dorado
Then within moments there was a huge hit and John's turn.  It was a Marlin.  He fought and fought for over 30 minutes.  It was big, but didn't jump and that worried the captain.  But they hung in there.
Bob and Greg watch the show
The excitement strong and once John got in the chair, there was movement back and forth, and the marlin came in, very close.  We could see the fluorescent color of the fin.
 
John with a big marlin








But sadly, the catch was false.  The hook had imbedded in the flesh and as the fish came towards the boat, he shook the hook off and was gone. And that was that for the day.  No more bites, just beautiful sea and close watching.  The good news, is that after every day of fishing there comes tea at the Hemphills and then a good bottle of beer at the Smugglers Cove.  The boys had earned this day.
Very good beer

The next day was more of the same.  Though I was very excited about the Colobus Monkeys at the hotel and at the Hemphills, the boys were unimpressed, and I was reduced to taking random pictures.  Only one near bite and not even much of that.
 Funny looking Colobus.  They are more like the Red Colobus Monkeys from Zanzibar but black ones.  And there are apparently lots of them and not surprisingly they have learned to love fruit.

 I suddenly felt inspired by Disneyworld's Pirates of the Caribbean ride (remember the hairy toe?) Very sad
 I took a picture of the pretty but empty lures.  That says a great deal about the day.
But at the end of it all, we had a nice trip.  Good friends, nice excursion.  But oh how the boys wanted to catch fish.  There is always next year!

Friday, February 8, 2013

Packed week lots of work, friends, family, catching up, and NO POWER

Moshi Week 2, 2013

We experienced a busy busy week in Moshi, topped by a wonderful but hard “hash” and a huge downpour that flooded the streets and made driving frightening. Dust settled and we had a few days in which the sun did not stab our brains.
Dr.Puli, Alice and Cecilia at First Health
A scary muddy drive to First Health Dispensary, but their happiness to see me was touching.  Thank you Barlett for your supplies, they were greatly appreciated!  (a small gift and huge smiles) 

Our wonderful neighbors came to visit with their very cool youngest son John Paul, and sweet Anne Marie (two others not with daddy Matt)
Anne Marie and Jean Paul with dad Matt--w/out sis Lucy and bro Dominic...or mommy

Thank you very much Stephen, I got to witness real tears as Margaret of Children of Destiny opened your envelope with your entire Christmas folded in to $100 and $20 dollar bills.  Her little orphan charges were so worried about her tears that they even interrupted the steady trend of conversation (he’s teasing me, she called me names, he took my dolly, I need to “PEEE”) with “Are you ok, Mama?”
Margaret showing gratitude for donation

These children, happy with whatever they have
Children of Destiny is an orphanage where the director is one woman...no board....with just a big heart.  The children are happy, all 25 of them.  They are incredibly poor and barely survive, but always offer me a plate of precious rice and beans.  Though it is rude to say "no", I do anyway, just thinking about that child's mouth to feed.  Stephen has saved their orphanage twice with donations of just about 1/2 of my own month's salary.  Enough to get them food for 3-4 months.  What more can you want!



Hot, and happy friends

The perfect "hasher"
We had a wonderful run/walk around our greater neighborhood and my legs have been sore all week.  I cannot describe the ravines, very deep on either side with no definite path for the way out.  Only jumping across rocks and if you miss, into the water (I went once into the water)
Jan, always where the action is....
John and Bob plan the Kenyan Trip


My greatest joy, meeting with different members of the community to talk about our research efforts.  Happily, the Coffee Shop folks are welcoming and warm, no matter how much I buy—their ice coffee is to die for--.

And then their was Dada’s dinner.  To be incorporated? Dada's United...We will change the world! Pamoja Tunaweza (Together we can)      That dinner crowned the week. 
The "baby" of our Dadas, Eunice does a little dance
Add We are now a big group of Dada's United....
Next week “off to Kenya”
Kilimanjaro is losing the ice cap fast !!!

Saturday, February 2, 2013

Durham to Moshi in 36 hours


From Winter to Summer in 36 hours. 

You did see 3 peaks in the previous blog, but so wonderful
John could care less about what a homeless man he looks, but it was cold
The jolt of an old body seems to attack John and I now with relative frequency.  In particular, this occurs because we plan our trips to Tanzania when we find the weather particularly unpleasant in one country or another.  So, for instance, we have frequently returned to Moshi in July or August when weather is balmy, but in the US, boiling hot.  Our friends in Moshi think that they know boiling hot, but they don’t know 100+ degrees with 100 percent humidity.  And generally, the temperature in Moshi drops drastically after the sun goes down.  And, they don’t know the 12 degrees that Boone is currently experiencing, for even in the Moshi winter, the temperature rarely drops below 50 or 55 degrees. (we all complain when it gets that cold). Certainly however, traveling for 36 hours is intense enough, and moving from one weather pattern and one time zone to another is amazing, and the older we get the more we have difficulty.

Date palm tree loaded with fruit
This trip, at least for me, has been just fine thank you.  It is hot, and it is more humid than usual.  For some reason, the long rains seem just around the corner and my hair looks like a lion’s.  But, it is cool at night, hot but bearable during the day, beautiful in the am. (and you don’t have to be outside too much in the middle of the day thank heavens).  So—hear is the jolt!

just a few of the eggplants

Just a few of the banana peppers

Just a few of the Mangoes ( birds are feasting)
We arrived to the beauty of our yard in Moshi and all the hard work that Pauli had done while we were gone and he was entertaining other visitors.  The manure that he engineered had paid off.  I have never seen banana peppers or eggplant so fabulous and HUGE. 
This is the biggest most beautiful eggplant I have ever seen in my life!
part of Palmetto tree


The tree—all the palmetto trees (look Julia) is loaded with fruit and the new plants are blooming. (and this isn’t really the right season).

When we arrived, we hit the road.  I had immediate CAB activities and realized how lucky we have been to have Elizabeth on the ground as our co-leader of research activities, and how lucky we are to have such an active CAB.  I have tried to catch up with as many of my “girl” friends as I can and more to come next week.  (all are active in health related activities in which we are involved in the community).  John has spent every day in meetings and activities until at least 6 at night and then on e-mail to Duke for another several hours.  We have a wonderful new emergency room attending Kathryn who is with us for another week, and who is amazing.   
Kathryn in a moment between pages and pages of readings
Charlie is guarding his girls
Charlie in his full beauty
Prices are higher on everything, but with our garden and our fruit, at least we have some break.  And, the love right now is our Rooster, Charlie who came from our wonderful carver in Marangu (Mamba) and has grown to be a beautiful guy who is not mean to his hens, but looks just magnificent.   
It seems that food for our chickens is plentiful, and it is warm enough that they don’t need any little crocheted coats.  Perhaps the best thing that happened was that we were able to buy Zantel Internet sticks.  After our Voda sticks were slower than possibly imaginable, we tried them.   They now seem compatible with both Apple’s and the KCMC compound. The price was much cheaper, and they are much faster. 

So, life is good.  We will wait until next week.!

Friday, January 18, 2013

Big Snow in NC

Thanks to John, we lived through a harrowing drive from Durham to Boone. For the first three quarters of the drive, rain pummeled the windshield and provided a few moments of scary road sliding.  As usual, the crazies came out around Burlington and tried to bump us off the road in their zeal to drive at least 20 mph over the speed limit (perhaps they were just thinking about the snow on the way).  But the really interesting part of the trip occurred as we started up the mountains.  The "wintry mix" had started just before Wilkesboro, but the weather switched dramatically and suddenly, this was John's visibility:
visibility 421
Kitty and I were very quiet but probably her little paws were sweaty and my hand gripped the door.  Cars started careening around--and by the time we got to the cross of the Blue Ridge Parkway, all the 2 wheel drive vehicles were doing their best to slide into us, be abandoned either in the middle of the highway or already in a ditch.  We slowly inched along.  Even downtown Boone was a mess, but lots of students were out jumping around, beer in hand.

We made it up to the switchback, walked the rest of the way. and quickly poured bourbon and gin.  By the time we got to the house, we had about 5 inches of snow, in some areas, drifts over a foot.
Porch on Arrival
 The snow on our side stopped shortly after our arrival, but we awoke to a winter wonderland.
3 Peaks in the am

Cabin in the hills of Caroline (a)

Blue Spruce

Side of our house
So, cheers to John for his great driving, and for our fabulous view for reminding us of how much we love our little neighborhood!

Thursday, December 20, 2012

Remembering at Christmas

In a season of tragic losses, I thought about some of the North Carolina people who gave the greater part of their lives to make the world a better place.  Today's editorial in the Raleigh News and Observer spurred me to post this article by Jim Jenkins, the Deputy editorial writer, and the beginning of the news article by Jane Stancil of the Raleigh News and Observer.  I noted that Jim Jenkins left out the "great" Leroy Walker, an omission that was perhaps the result of his probably not being friends with Earl Scruggs and possibly not Doc Watson, but certainly he was one of the great heroes of our lives.  

But I would be remiss in not reflecting on my parents and in-laws who were "greats" in their own right who died in previous years:
My mother (d. December 19th, 1998), my father (b. December 25th, d. September 2000), my mother-in-law (d. December 24th, 2011), and my father-in-law (d. March 17th, 2001), I miss their wisdom, (wise cousel) their scholarship and their grace.
Dad and I

Mother and Dad

Mother

Jim and I

Nancy

Mother, dad, Nancy and Jim-happy days at the beach


"A year of losses, Friday, Griffith, Scruggs and Watson
Published in: Jenkins

They were so very different, each had a particular kind of genius and their personalities ranged from gregarious to quiet. All were raised among foothills or mountains, in modest circumstances, and earned everything they ever had. They went to the top of their chosen callings, but retained genuine modesty.
None had a life without sadness. In thinking about four absent friends, fellow North Carolinans who died this year, a sobering realization was that all of them lost children before their time, surely the most grievous suffering that can come to a parent. That gave pause, with the tragedy that struck the mothers and fathers of Newtown, Conn., less than a week ago.
Now, as Christmas nears, it’s a time of reflection on the loss of loved ones and old compadres in the last year, and it happens to be an especially sad year for that process among those in this state who knew any or all of these four men: Bill Friday, founding president of what is now the University of North Carolina system and arguably the most important North Carolinian of the 20th century; Andy Griffith, whose namesake television series may be the best comedy ever made; Earl Scruggs, certainly the most gifted banjo player in that instrument’s history; and Doc Watson, guitar virtuoso and singer.
They knew each other and liked each other, these fellows. Different “threads” they were in a way, but together they added color and depth and meaning to the quilt of North Carolina. And upon their deaths after long lives (Griffith was the youngest, at 86) they were celebrated for accomplishments that will be remembered and revered for as long as the University of North Carolina is around, for as long as television exists, for as long as there is music.
And North Carolinians who take the time during the holidays to think about these grand lives will immerse themselves, really, in the history of this state, over the last half of the 20th century. It’s a chance as well to contemplate what it was about them, what traits they may have shared, that led them to such admired levels of achievement.
For Friday, education in Wake Forest, Raleigh and Chapel Hill sparked a life’s work. Coming out of a county, Gaston, where textile mills dominated the culture, he saw from his own experience what a difference higher schooling could make, and thus his course was set for the next 60 years. He helped individuals and institutions, the first to have the courage to dream the dream and the second to see that it was fulfilled.
He had a way with people. Students were astonished when he remembered their names, sometimes years later, after one meeting.


Bill Friday, a gentleman and a scholar

Griffith grew up in Mount Airy, close by the mountains, and helped push his own dream along with a public education in Chapel Hill. Some who knew him believed he was driven by the hurt of hearing someone call him “white trash” in his youth, but who knows? He made a difference in North Carolina in a way that didn’t occur to most people: Instead of playing a “hick” sheriff from the state on his TV show, he lost the country-fried accent early on to convey dignity.
Andy Griffith, brought us humor and lessons we have never forgotten

Scruggs was gifted (and nurtured his gift with hours of practice), but took nothing for granted. He worked in a mill until he was sure he could make a living at music. And he stood for what he believed even if it was unpopular in the “country music community,” evidenced by his performances with Joan Baez and statements against the war in Vietnam.
Earl Scruggs, great Bluegrass musician--not just Deliverance but a good citizen, as well

And then there was Doc. Blind since early childhood, he was taught independence by his parents and came to the school for the blind in Raleigh. He played in small bands until he was discovered in his 30s and his impossible guitar-playing and encyclopedic knowledge of old-time music took him to stardom. All his life, he stayed in Deep Gap and created a world-famous music festival named for his late son, Merle.
Doc Watson, not only a great musician but a great humanitarian as well. 

Those who called them “friend” typically were of long acquaintance. Each possessed a degree of character and strength that helped them to weather criticism which all faced along the way. Each was shaped by small-town values, values, we hope, that are still being taught in the communities of North Carolina."
Deputy editorial page editor Jim Jenkins can be reached at 919-829-4513 or at jjenkins@newsobserver.com
"His grandchildren called him Papa. Olympians he mentored called him Doc. And though he was a Ph.D., a university chancellor and president of the U.S. Olympic Committee, most people called him Coach.
And that’s just how he liked it.
Hundreds gathered at Duke Chapel on Tuesday to bid farewell to LeRoy Walker, the legendary track and field coach who died last week at 93. The funeral drew mourners from all over the nation – Olympians, coaches, politicians, family and friends." (N&O May 1, 2011)
Leroy Walker, Man of grace, scholar, athlete, and gentleman


Read more here: http://www.newsobserver.com/2012/05/01/2036230/hundreds-say-farewell-to-leroy.html#storylink=cpy