Saturday, October 31, 2015

Elections are Over, What has Changed and Mama Mkali is Alive and Well



John Pombe (really) Magufuli (the Bulldozer)
Samia Suluhu Hasaan First Female Vice-President of Tanzania

I felt as if I were in the US after Bush V Gore and the Florida election votes had been tallied.  “ hanging chads”  and the election is over…almost, and then over as Magufuli was quickly seated with his Vice President, Samia Suluhu, a strong woman from Zanzibar. I find it hard to understand a good deal of the response to the elections.  I am completely baffled by the CCM party’s ownership of the National Election Commission and the Zanzibar Election Commission and their overt “flip-flop”; i.e., the acceptance of the mainland vote (which was clearly manipulated, probably not enough to change the outcome of Magafuli winning, but enough to infuriate the voters who voted for the opposition and are probably correctly sure that ballots were not counted properly from certain regions), and the Zanzibar nullification of their vote in which the opposition won.  (and probably even there the opposition votes weren’t fully counted).  So, my African friends are angry, yet not surprised, and they aren’t rioting but they are hoping that some international group (hopes hanging futilely on the US) will get involved and force a recount of the mainland and an acceptance of the vote on Zanzibar.  Sigh.  Magufuli has pledged to end corruption of the high level party officials.  All of us are hoping that he will make good on his promise, and that the new leaders will be strong and willing to work with the opposition instead of trying to crush them.  Who knows.

Golden weaver bird in Zawani Tented Lodge Camp
Mama Mkali (Mama Harsh, mean or whatever) headed out for a short run on Wednesday, only to run into a little boy and his young mother.  The little boy had rocks that he was throwing at the weaver nests, where babies were chirping and mothers in their plain colors were anxiously flying around trying to protect their nests.  I (mama mkali) in my most stern Kiswahili (which of course isn’t that great) in no uncertain terms told the little boy to stop, I took his rocks and gave him a lesson in the worth of birds that eat bugs, mosquitos and other “wadudu” that are annoying and sometimes harmful to humans.  His stunned mother finally said, “si piga motto”  (stop hitting child) and he did.  So here again is a beautiful golden weaver from Ziwani Camp.  The weaver nests are fascinating, but let them fall after the babies grow and leave, please.

Because of the elections, John and I had stocked up on provisions and made a pledge to stay near home and KCMC (to which we can walk if need be).  It was actually a good week, and I revel always in our sweet house and all the flowers that Pauli has planted and nourished.  I try to help him, but my zeal for manure and feeding some of the plants results in the tragedies of their demise.  Here are some just fabulous ones.!
Clerodendrum (beautiful)


Shell Ginger beautiful

And this is Pink Oleander, beautiful but very poisonous

Our fun house

I'm obsessed with the Rangoon Creeper

And, so sad to report that the baby ducks have been struck by some virus.  All but 5 have died.  I fear the same outcome for the others, but maybe fate will intercede.  They are so cute, and for Pauli, Lucy baby Joni and me, it is very sad to watch their quick demises.

 

In this “stay near home plan”, we had a lovely dinner with the new Executive Director of the hospital Gileard Masenga and an opportunity to chat about shared hopes and dreams for KCMC and for projects that are on-going or about to come.  

Two incredibly handsome guys!

We also had a fun conference that our wonderful Dr. Nyindo presented on his parasitology “MOK”.  I thought of my friend Doug, and how, at the end of his life, he signed up for every on-line course he could find.  He would have loved this one, I guaranty.  And, Nyindo is so very happy when he finds an outlet for his special field of gross bugs and snails and horrible diseases that sail right along with them.
Kili  Oct 28 2005
kili with bouganvilia oct 28 2015

Kili Oct 28 2015

The mountain has been out, and though it is always inspiring, take a look at the loss of snow.  Stunning this year.  When I compare the snow just 10 years ago this month, it is astonishing.

Finally, it is Halloween!  And here we had the first “trick-or treaters” I can remember.  Start a tradition kids.  Wonderful.  So Happy Halloween all! Or All Hallows Eve or whatever.

Sunday, October 25, 2015

Election "Blues?"


John Trish and Bob in Tsavo West

Election Day Tanzania October 25, 15
And of course lots of other things

As I have only mused on the wonder of Tsavo West our friendship with “Dr. Bob” and our neighboring Kenya and its wonders, it is fitting I think to turn back to Tanzania and our beautiful Northern Zone of Kilimanjaro. 

Picture from 2007... about 17% snow on mountain currently.
This entire trip of ours back to our home here in Moshi town has been filled with the discussion of “the campaign”, the election.  Again, what we have heard and witnessed is the general broad concept of “Change” and the need for a “change”.  The reports have the election neck and neck, and for us, we have no inkling of which way the wind will turn.  For one thing, we live in opposition country, and the opposition party Chedema suddenly found themselves with a gold mine for their candidate, Edward Luassa, a chief of the ruling party CCM.  He bolted the party when he was not selected as the CCM candidate.  He has a checkered past, but claims that he was framed for corruption and that he can lead the opposition to the front.  There is much discussion about the corruption, but most say that he could win.  The CCM ruling party candidate is considered a surprise candidate, selected by the party chairs and perhaps a reluctant candidate; however, he is considered to be very honest and has done a terrific job in the posts within the party that he has held.  And, to top it off, he has chosen a woman as his Vice-presidential candidate from Zanzibar. So there is general agreement amongst both parties that he could be a good President.  The bottom line is, do the people who are desperate for change at all costs (and many of our dearest friends, just say, “it is time for change”, win, or do they lose.  And who loses in the end?  We don’t know, but we do know that nearly everyone is praying for peace. 

Who are we as Americans to judge anyone after all!

So that has been the forefront of nearly everything; however, in our lives the small things have been great! 

I have taken to looking for birds in the yard with only limited success.  I hear them, I see them, but they also see me, and whoosh off they go.  My favorites are the yellow sunbirds who love the fragrant frangipani, blue salvia, yesterday today tomorrow, pink sunflower, Easter lily and the Rangoon Creeper. But I have been totally unable to get any photos of them. I did manage to grab a black-headed oriole a group of which wakes us up in the morning at 5:45.  They are so cute and persistent that you cannot help but get up and you just cannot hate them.  We have a ton of Cordon Bleu, but they are really fast and no way to manage a picture, but here is a wonderful flycatcher eating seeds.  He did not want me around either, but he wanted the seeds more.

hiding black headed oriole.

Nice flycatcher
Blue salvia

Rose tree???

fab rose tree (name later I think)

Rangoon Creeper

African Monkey?


another stinky shrub (wonderful stinky) I will identify when I can

weird snake plant flower
Frangipani

Easter Lily
I have also thrived on Pauli’s ducks.  They aren’t particularly nice to their babies (either a male or a female kills off the weak ones and it is almost unbearable; however the strong survive and I have spent quite a few hours watching them parade around the yard.  My fabulous chickens are doing well, particularly with their new fenced in little yard.  Charlie is quite happy, and we are getting 3-5 fresh eggs each day! 

very cute babies

mom and children

Unbelievable gardenias
My gardenias have been blooming their heads off, and I pick 5-6 every 4 days, put the little vases right in front of my computer and breathe in their fragrance with joy.

Pauli and Lucy’s little boy is busy busy.  He has more words each week, and is particularly puzzled knowing that I am Bibi, and Pauli’s mother is Bibi, we are nearly the same age, but I am one color and she is another.  He looks back and forth between us and his little forehead becomes quite furrowed.  Because he is not quite two, he finds something else, like daddy’s motorbike that he completely understands.  
crazy hash pic...Simon usually does not look like a deer in the headlights.

We had an amazingly beautiful hash at Ralph (local lawyer)’s house high in Rau.  We had to make our way through campaign rallies, but the hike itself was spectacular and the friends many indeed. 

Girlfriends
My girlfriends had dinner together (Dada’s dinner) and laughed so hard that I worried we might be evicted.  Fortunately, our waitress was fascinated with these old ladies gossiping and calling each other names, and expressing joy at being together again. 

Charles being provocative at Mkulima...who knows.
awful picture, wonderful time...
John and I had dinner at Mkulima both with project friends, and with our dear Emmanuel’s and our interim priest whom we have enjoyed so much. It will be most difficult to say good-bye to Tony when the time comes. But hopefully he will come back.

John and I had tea with Fons and Sylvia and had a fabulous tour of the greenhouses.  Sylvia offered us coffee and juice, we chatted about nearly everything, and I again thought about how lucky I have been to meet and spend time with truly amazing people.

Cuttings that lead to fabulous plants headed to Netherlands

The way you do cuttings

soft place in my heart for kitties that look like Squeaker

Peace lily....a CUTTING!
sorry..bad pic of Fons with his special plugs!
And finally, my Dutch daughter Marieke and her husband Marco and John and I had a great dinner together.  
 
Very special friends Marco and Marieke!
 I marvel at how Moshi, Tanzania, brings such different backgrounds and ages together.  I am vowing that every day until we leave this magic place, I will do some small thing that is not only positive for me, but for someone else.  I know there will be a time when we will not be able to return, thus, for each day I know I have…well I’ll make it good!


Thursday, October 8, 2015

Exploring Tsavo West: Nagging Pays Off



John Trish and Bob at Kilaguni Lodge in Tsavo West
 So I am skipping the first week (which I will put up later) and moving straight to a three day safari in Tsavo West and at the Ziwani Gate (Ziwani Tented Lodge).

I had nagged John for about 3 years to go to Tsavo National Park in Kenya.  I had read every piece of history I could find about the park after John & I and our friend Bob had driven through it on the way to Shimoni for our first fishing trip.  My research had produced an amazing history of fortitude and desire to keep animals safe, thanks the Seldwick family.
 
At the spur of the moment, Bob, John and I discovered we had a weekend available. Thanks to our friend Jackie Brice-Bennett, we found a tour agency and guide who was happy to work with us.

The three of us were pretty unprepared for the amazing experience that we had.  First of all, with a new e-visa system, and our Tanzanian residency we experienced cost breaks at all the parks, and at the hotels, and the new customs program provides in and out with both countries at the same building.  Terrific.  And then, we discovered that indeed Tsavo West is a stone’s throw away from the border (18 KM). We had decided to go to Ziwani Tented Lodge (right at the edge of Tsavo West Entrance) due Jackie's suggestion.  WOW…here are some photos.
This became a theme--

Modest sign, fantastic place

Orphans come to see animals

Lots of Vervet monkeys--here one defleaing his/her friend
This monkey trying to unzip tent.  Ziwani tents very strong.
John and I front of our tent
Ostrich crossing road

Wildebeeste from outdoor eating....easy to view birds, animals

Lilac Breasted roller

Lilac Breasted Roller2
Not sure, but maybe Taveta Golden Weaver (has red crown)
Go Away Bird!
Mongoose--RikiTiki Tavi and friends

Very cool and weird Egyptian Goose
Get  ready--here is my favorite bird, The Crown Bird or Crown Crane.
Crown Crane with Egyptian Geese
Time to find your true love  Crown Birds dance

"Shake those neck feathers" Man on the Run!!!
And then there were crocs:
Sunbathing right near to us
Nice to have an askari near us!
Two big pools of Hippos!
Hippos interested but stayin' cool
I am fascinated by Hippo nose, ear and back hair! Gross?
First of two big Hippo pools
My favorite Animal--Ngiri!  Warthogs making perfect photo
Huge Nile Lizards all around streams..very weird, very prehistoric
Beautiful vista & fish eagles in trees
Only John a regular member of "The clean plate club"
Beautiful Waterbuck
Yellow Billed Stork fishing

Yellow Billed Stork surveying the pools
Tons and tons of giraffe

After 24 hours of eating the most delicious food, sleeping in the most comfortable tent, “hiking” with Chameleon, the most wonderful guide

Bob and Chameleon
, and having a night safari and delicious breakfast…off we went to Tsavo West.   

Gate to Tsavo West
Bob and I had missed that the Rhino sign, meant the entrance..umm,  a bit dense. But here we go.  Hardly had we finished the paper work than Giraffe greeted us. 
Happy Giraffe
 I became totally fascinated with the way that the birds ate the ticks off the giraffe necks and faces.  The giraffe didn't seem to care at all!
Three birds on this giraffe neck!

Look right under his mouth!

We slowly worked our way to the Kilaguni Serena, stopping frequently for photos of wonderful animals. 

Wallers Gazelle or Giraffe Antelope, very tiny with big neck & ears

Nice Wildebeeste

another nice Giraffe scene

Near the River (which was nearly dried up)
Breathtaking change of scenery
The Kilaguni was all that it was touted.  It had “posh” elements, lovely dining facitilites, nice rooms (ours was quite warm at the end of the day) with individual porches that gave us beautiful viewing areas, and the famous water hole (though it was filled with big trucks while we were there) that brings animals from all over, seemingly in a defined train. We had a great afternoon/evening drive and saw even more animals and vistas.  Tsavo West is beautiful; expanses of savannas 360 degrees.  Always plenty of birds and other animals.  Since we are not “cat” necessary travelers, we were perfectly happy with what we had seen, but just before the return in the gate, here was a beautiful family of elephants to greet us.
Hx Mzima Springs

Our nice guide at Mzima Springs

Warning Mzima Springs

Nice African Darter & little pied kingfisher


Hakuna Matata

Croc at the foot of the viewing stairs....Gulp

Mongoose in front of dining table

Lodge sign

Nice picture lodge



Inside our room



Birds eating rice in tree trunk

Bob got the instructions and we assembled

This little baby elephant came with his family of mama, aunties
nice evening baby

Animal show at lodge

In the morning, more elephants and other animals. 








After we left Kilaguni and did our exit strategy (in case of fire) we found many more animals, and finally another elephant family as we left the park.

As we were contemplating leaving Kenya, we were reassured by the underlying signs.

In case you forgot to bring it!

Miraa is something like Khat, or a relaxation drug

No way to resist this sign
If we thought that was enough…well the surprise was that President Kikwete (Tz) was meeting  President Kenyatta (Kenya) for a big celebration in Taveta (the town we had to drive through to get to the border).  Sadly, the border was closed and suddenly cars closed around us.  Our Guide managed to drive through more ditches and dust and maneuver us out, or we might be languishing in Taveta to this very day.  Sigh.  We got out, through the border before Kikwete returned, and home again.  We are still re-living our short safari, and Bob, John and I think of the magic of the time.